Spicy cucumber salad

         They taste like burning!
                      ~ Ralph Wiggum, The Simpsons: Das Bus



A cucumber salad might seem like an odd choice for a winter recipe. Defense offers the following arguments: firstly, that the dressing offers enough heat ward off even a severe chill; secondly, as the forecast is oscillating between frostbite inducing -25°C/-13°F and a balmy +12°C/54°F, waiting a few days will likely produce cucumber salad-appropriate temperatures; thirdly, the salad is so delicious it will make you forget all about the weather.

I first encountered this dish at the Han Dynasty restaurant on New York's Upper West Side. Han's specializes in Sichuan dishes, and the salad is traditionally served as a cooling accompaniment to the fiery cuisine of the region. Despite my repeated entreaties, the restaurant declined to share the dressing's secret recipe. After spending some time testing various ingredient options and proportions, I have come up with something that, while not a perfect facsimile, makes a really tasty salad.

The dish offers a really great flavor balance. The cool crunch of the cucumber is offset by the spicy, pungent dressing. The acidity of vinegar is mitigated with a hint of sweetness, and sesame seed oil offers a hit of smokiness and marries the flavors together. The dressing is so good that any remainder is invariably eaten with spoon after all the cucumber slices are gone.

I don't dare call this Sichuan cucumber salad, since it lacks the traditional Sichuan peppercorns and Chinese black vinegar. Instead, the dressing uses ingredients that are likely already in your pantry (and are relatively easy to find), and can be used in a variety of other dishes. If you have Chinese black vinegar in stock, by all means use it instead, and omit the sugar.



Spicy cucumber salad
2 to 4 servings

• 1 English hothouse or 2 slicing cucumbers (around 1 pound/500 grams)
• 2 teaspoons regular table salt

If using regular slicing cucumbers, which tend to have tough skin, peel them. If using English hothouse cucumber, no need to peel. Cut each cucumber in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds with a small spoon.


Place the cucumbers cut side down on the cutting board, and whack with the flat side of the knife (the blade edge facing away, please). Do not hit so hard that the vegetables are pulverized, but use enough force to flatten the cucumber halves into long spears. Smashing increases the surface area, speeding up flavor absorption.
Slice the spears into half-inch (1cm) pieces.



Toss the cucumbers with salt, stir, and place in a colander set over a bowl to drain. Salting and straining firms up and seasons the cucumber flesh. Place in the refrigerator and leave for at least 15 minutes.


While the cucumbers are crisping up, prepare the dressing.

An important note on chili peppers. The dried arbol chilis in the photos have a spice rating of 10-30K Scoville heat units (SHUs), falling on the milder end of the spicy-heat spectrum. Cayenne peppers have a rating of 30-50K SHUs and bird's eye (Thai) chilis pack 100-20K SHUs. Since the Scoville rating is based on identical mass, it is possible to use a spicier pepper in the recipe by using less of it. Removing the ribs and seeds will reduce intensity of the pepper (the seeds are not spicy themselves, but are coated in capsaicinoids, the chemical compounds responsible for sensation of spice). If using a bird's eye chili, I would recommend starting with just one.

Dressing

• 1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, peeled
• 3 dried arbol chilis or 1 fresh cayenne pepper
• 2 Tablespoons sesame oil
• 2 Tablespoons rice vinegar
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce

Finely mince or grate the garlic cloves.
If using dried chilies, break into large flakes, and discard the seeds. If using fresh pepper, wash and slice into thin rounds.

Place the sesame seed oil and chilis into a small saucepan and set over medium low heat. If the chilis start to brown, reduce the heat to low. Infuse, stirring occasionally, until small bubbles form around the edges of the pan and the chili pieces, 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the garlic. After 30 seconds, the garlic should release its aroma but not change color.

Return the saucepan to heat and add the rice vinegar, sugar and soy sauce. Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved, another 30 seconds or so. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. The dressing should be a dark amber color, redolent of chilis and piquant with garlic.



Once the dressing cools to room temperature, assemble the salad. Combine the cucumbers and the dressing in a bowl; mix well, cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Stir well before serving.



The salad is an excellent accompaniment to almost any protein, especially heavier cuts such as ribs or pork belly. The spiciness of the dressing cuts through the fattiness of the meat, and the cool, crisp cucumber offers a pleasing palate cleanser. It would also be fantastic with grilled salmon or roast chicken.

The salad does not keep very well, as the cucumbers lose their crisp texture. It is possible to prepare extra dressing in advance and refrigerate it in an airtight glass jar for a few days. Remember, the garlic flavor will gain potency over time. Take the dressing out of the refrigerator to warm up while the cucumbers are straining.

Pantry note: While fresh chilis will look more attractive in the salad, it is expensive to buy 1 pepper at a time, and buying in bulk often produces one or two great dishes plus a bag of moldy chilis. It is more economical to buy a large package of dried chilis and keep it in the refrigerator. Arbol chilis, which offer moderate heat, work well in a variety of cuisines, and it is very easy to turn whole dried peppers into large flakes or chili powder, as needed.

Raisin rice pudding

Davros: ”We shall become all p...” The Doctor (interrupting): ”Powerful! Crush the lesser races! Conquer the galaxy! Unimaginable power! Unlimited rice pudding!”

Doctor Who: Remembrance of the Daleks (Part IV)

A recent houseguest, upon hearing we were having rice pudding for dessert, informed me that his father, and his father's father before him, were proprietors of an extremely successful Greek diner in New York City; as such he believed himself to be somewhat of a expert on the dish. Upon tasting this pudding, he sat for several minutes in meditative silence, looked me in the eye and said, ”I don't understand - this has so much flavor! How is it possible for rice pudding to have so much flavor?”

Rice pudding, while firmly established as an indulgent treat in the desserts category, is surprisingly healthy. A generous serving has less than one glass of whole milk and a just a few teaspoons of rice and sugar. The pudding's luscious, creamy texture results not from butter or cream but rather from amylopectin, one of the two components of starch (the other is amylose). As the rice cooks, it absorbs the milk, each grain increasing in size several times. At the same time, the grains release starch that acts as a thickening agent. To achieve the correct texture, it is important to select the right rice.

This recipe calls for short-grain rice, which has a very high amylopectin content. Short-grain is a classification, not a specific variety; Arborio (or any generic risotto) rice or sushi rice would work well. There is no need to look for a specific brand - the required rice grain, under any name, should be a stubby oval instead of a long, thin grain. Medium-grain rice (indeed, some classify risotto rices as medium rather than short-grain) could be used as well - its lower amylopectin content will simply produce a softer and more relaxed pudding.

Look for rice with grains similar to those on the left (on the right is Basmati rice, a long-grain variety, for comparison). Rather than paying a premium for fancy risotto rice, look for the right rice in a Middle Eastern grocery - rice pudding is a popular dish throughout the region, and the prices tend to be more than reasonable.

Raisin rice pudding
Inspired by the baked rice pudding from Marion Cunningham's The Breakfast Book.

2-3 Servings	4-6 Servings
2½ Cups whole milk 2 Tablespoons short-grain rice 3 Tablespoons sugar ¼ teaspoon salt ½ vanilla bean 3 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg 3 Tablespoons raisins	5 Cups whole milk 4 Tablespoons (¼ Cup) short-grain rice 6 Tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 vanilla bean 5-6 cardamom pods 1-2 cinnamon sticks ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg 6 Tablespoons raisins

Preheat the oven to 150°C / 300°F.
N.B. If using a convection oven, reduce the temperature to 135°C/275°F.

Cut the vanilla bean ¹ in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the back of the knife blade.

Place vanilla seeds and empty pod into an oven-safe, heavy-bottomed dish, add all the remaining ingredients except raisins and stir well.

N. B. This recipe works equally well with coconut milk, diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.

Cover and bake, stirring after the initial 20, 40 and 60 minutes. After a total of 2½ to 3 hours for the smaller batch (3½ - 4 hours for the larger one), remove from the oven, stir in the raisins, cover again and let rest for at least 15 minutes. The moisture and heat from the pudding will plump and soften the raisins.
N.B. The total cooking time needed will vary depending on the baking vessel. A wide, shallow dish promotes evaporation, and the pudding will reach the right consistency faster than if cooked in a narrow, tall pot.

The result is dense and rich, heady with bold, exotic flavors of cardamom and cinnamon. For a gentler, more mellow flavor, omit all spices except the nutmeg. For a softer texture, thin the pudding with some warm milk before serving or use a medium-grain rice such as Calrose. Adjust the sugar level to your liking, increase the amount of raisins or leave them out entirely.

The pudding should keep in the refrigerator for up to five days; it never seems to last more than two.

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¹ A quick note on vanilla beans. Purchasing vanilla beans at the last minute in the local supermarket tends to be expensive and often offers only a solitary, dessicated bean. As a sporadic baker, I do not use a lot of vanilla beans, although I do buy them in bulk when a good price/quality ratio is on offer. Theoretically, high-quality vanilla will keep almost indefinitely in a cool, dark place; however, even when properly stored the beans do tend to dry out over time. Macerating the beans in alcohol keeps them plump and has the added benefit of producing an excellent vanilla extract, something even a casual baker will find useful.

Start with a clean, resealable, watertight container; add vanilla beans, and enough good quality vodka (nothing that comes in a one-gallon plastic jug, please) to completely submerge the beans. Minimum recommended ratio is 5-6 vanilla beans for every 1 Cup/250ml of alcohol (at least 70 proof). Seal the container and leave in a cool, dark place. Shake occasionally; after 4-6 weeks the extract will be ready for use. As the liquid level drops, top off with more vodka and add vanilla beans as they are purchased. When a recipe calls for a vanilla bean rather than extract, pull one out of the jar and cut off the end - the seeds will pour out, no scraping necessary.

Carrot-feta salad with tahini dressing

I'm trying to impress people here, Lisa. You don't win friends with salad.

~ Homer J. Simpson, The Simpsons: Lisa the Vegetarian

As an opportunistic omnivore, I eat almost everything. Joyfully, most foods turn out to be tasty, if not downright delicious. The list of foods I have disliked and would prefer to avoid in the future is mercifully short - sea cucumbers (childhood phobia plus a texture bias), boiled onions and boiled carrots. That last one seems particularly sad - the soggy texture, the washed-out color, the watered-down flavor. Bright orange, sweet and crunchy are the defining characteristics of carrots; it seems unjust to deprive them of their identity.

Thankfully, this salad both highlights and takes advantage of the carrot's natural talents. Bright in both color and flavor, it brings together the sweetness of carrots, the grassy sharpness of parsley and the briny tang of feta. The result is both good and good for you, full of vitamins and antioxidants, and studded with luscious cheese.

Serve with olives and some charcuterie as an appetizer, as a light side with meat or fish (perhaps omitting the feta), or by itself as a refreshing lunch. However it is presented, everybody goes for second helpings.

This salad is indebted¹ to Deb Perelman's carrot salad with tahini and crisped chickpeas. After trying Deb's recipe, I found that I absolutely loved the zesty tahini dressing and the way it contrasted with the carrots. The roasted chickpeas and pistachios were not not my favorite elements - the carrots had enough texture on their own, and I found myself wandering in a different direction, a salty softness in place of spicy crunch.

Carrot-feta salad with tahini dressing
Serves 4-6
Do make more than you need. This dish is seriously addictive, and keeps very well in the refrigerator for several days.
Salad

• 1.5 pounds carrots (4-7, depending on size)
• 1 large bunch of parsley (2-3 cups loosely packed leaves)
• ½ pound feta cheese

Dressing

• 2-3 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice (1 medium lemon)
• 2 Tablespoons tahini
• 2 Tablespoons olive oil
• 1-2 Tablespoons water (bottled or boiled)
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• freshly ground black pepper

Peel and grate the carrots on the the large holes of the grater. A food processor shreds the carrots too finely to maintain the crunch; a little additional effort here makes a big difference.

Wash the parsley, shake off as much water as possible (or use a salad spinner) and remove the leaves from the stems. Roughly chop the leaves - they should be small enough to blend easily with the carrots but large enough to still have some texture.

Cube the feta cheese. If you are feeling particular, 1cm (¼ inch) cubes.

Prepare the dressing directly in a large bowl. Peel and finely mince the garlic. Add olive oil, salt and pepper.

Stir the tahini well before using. Tahini will separate over time, with solids sinking to the bottom and a layer of sesame oil forming on the top. Use a clean, dry utensil - tahini keeps practically forever, as long as it is not contaminated.

Roll the lemon on the counter before cutting and juicing to break the membranes and release more juice. If using a lemon directly from the refrigerator, microwave for 30 seconds before cutting. Juice the lemon into the the bowl (use a strainer or your fingers to catch the pips) and mix the dressing. Tahini will emulsify the dressing; add 1-2 Tablespoons of water to thin it out - it should pour easily.

Add the grated carrots, chopped parsley and cubed feta to the dressing; mix to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary.

Serve sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds for an added crunch.

A quick ingredient note - the olive oil used in the dressing was a lovely gift from a thoughtful friend. The oil came from friends of the friend - a Greek couple who recently started a small business exporting artisanal olive oil (from a monastery, no less!). This oil is absolutely wonderful. It has a bright, grassy flavor without being bitter or overpowering. It is robust enough to stand up to sharp flavors like garlic and feta, and mild enough to dress delicate greens. I have been lucky enough to taste olive oils from some amazing producers all over the Mediterranean, and this is easily in my top three. I really recommend visiting Maryó's webstite and purchasing a bottle or two².

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¹Ha! A terrible, unintentional pun.

²Sadly, this recommendation is not sponsored with additional bottles.